Saturday, January 16, 2016

Here we go again

It snowed here yesterday. ALL day long. We have had no more than ten flakes of snow this season until yesterday, and temperatures have been nearer to autumn than winter. It's still not very cold by Wisconsin standards - hovering close to freezing, but still warm enough that sidewalks are clear of snow and ice in the sunny bits where they have been shoveled.


It might be pretty if I liked snow even a little. I do not. The only thing snow means to me is work (shoveling and snowblowing), potential injuries from slipping on our front steps, and even more danger on the roads.

I readily admit that photos of snowy mountains - the Alps, the Tetons, the Rockies - and snowy Alaska in the winter look gorgeous...as long as I am looking at postcards or online photos from the cozy warmth of my living room. I have fond memories of cross-country skiing with my family in northern Wisconsin, a few vague memories of downhill skiing on bunny hills, ice skating with friends in a park near my childhood home, and sledding on the one hill in my hometown. I'm glad I have those memories, and I have no desire to resume any of those activities.

So we have deep snow now (deep for here). Hopefully it will melt in the next few days so I can drive again. You see, here's the problem...

Shoveling in Germany

Streets are narrow, and the sidewalks are right against the curb at the street - no spacious row of grass between the sidewalk and the street. As I've written before, most Swabians have fences or huge hedges at the edge of their property. So when it comes time to shovel a healthy dose of the "weiße Scheiße", where do they go with snow? They push it into the street.


In the above photo I'm standing on our sidewalk looking at our driveway, and beyond is our neighbors' sidewalk. I took this photo because it shows the width of the sidewalk with and without snow, the height of the neighbors' hedge (in other words, there is no way for them to throw the snow over the hedge into their yard), and how much snow is on the street. If I'd taken a photo in the other direction, the street would look the same because I had to teach yesterday afternoon and didn't have time to do a proper job.

When dry and snowless, our street is just wide enough for two cars to drive slowly past each other. With snow it's a single-lane street with the thankfully infrequent traffic going both ways. 

With a high hedge, wall, or fence at the property line, I get it that the snow has to be pushed into the street - there's nowhere else for it to go. All the neighbors on the left side of the street above have an additional problem of having no front yard. They have only driveways, garages, and hedges, so there is also no place to throw the snow. But even people who have low hedges or fences do this. Our hedge is now chest-high on me, and it's a pain, but the Wisconsinite in me cannot shovel the snow into the street. I throw it over the hedge. Luckily we have a snowblower, so if I were willing to use middle-weight machinery, snow removal would be even easier for me.

I want our entire sidewalk to look like our driveway does - no snow at the curb. Our neighbors would probably think I'm nuts - I forget to do Kehrwoche on Saturdays, but I waste time shoveling snow from the street/curb.

It would probably be futile anyway, because of course when the snow plow comes through the snow would all be back. That's no big deal - I'm surely used to that from Wisconsin. You just go back out and do it all again. The joys of winter.

"I know you just spent 2 hours shoveling, kids,
but the plow just came past again. I'll get the hot cocoa ready."

One more thing about snow in Germany: there are lots of paths snaking through our village behind and between houses allowing pedestrians to get around more easily. There's one directly across from our front gate, and that's M's usual route to the office.

This is the path during a nicer season,
and just beyond the bicycle barriers is our front gate.

At the start of winter city workers put up a sign here saying "Kein Winterdienst", meaning they're not going to bother shoveling or salting this path during winter. But we (and others) use this path all the time - I use it when I walk to the butcher, the bus stop, the recycling center, the mailbox, and the grocery store. Since we have a snowblower, M usually plows this path up to the point where it turns into someone else's driveway. That person shovels or plows his driveway, of course, but stops at the start of this path (behind me as I'm taking this picture). Yesterday evening when M plowed here, that guy was shoveling as well and said to M, "You know, you don't have to clear snow from there." M said he knows, but since he uses that path everyday, he would rather clear the snow.

While I am slowly turning into a Swabian (or at least a Neig'schmeckte), some of the American has rubbed off on M as well. An American - if he had time and especially a snowblower - would shovel or plow this path because 
  a. it makes sense to do so especially if he uses the path, 
  b. he's already bundled up anyway and it won't take long, and/or
  c. ...why not? 

A German would tend not to clear the snow here because
  a. he's got enough to do with his own chores, or
  b. it's not his property, or
  c. there's no law or rule that says he has to.

Those are M's footprints from this morning. He would be tromping
through ankle-deep snow if he hadn't cleared this last path night.
The path forks here - clearly people also use the path to the right,
though no one but time and nature will clear that snow.
It's not that I'm blaming Germans for not clearing snow they're not required to clear. Life in Germany is so heavily regulated by laws and rules for what one must and may not do, that if there isn't a rule or law for something, there's no need to think about it. Winter brings snow and snow means boots, because sometimes you'll be trudging through snow banks (like when you need to cross a street in our village) or snow-covered paths that no one is required to clear.

My point, in case you've read this far, is that although I am often hard on Americans and tend to favor the German way of doing things, clearing snow is one of the things Wisconsinites do better. Granted, they have much more space available for shoveled or plowed snow - huge yards and parking lots, for instance. But even though most Wisconsin streets are wide enough for at least three cars to drive abreast with or without snow, Wisconsinites do whatever needs to be done to keep the snow off the streets.

I'll end with a few more photos of what I do not miss about Wisconsin.

This is Wisconsin - pretty much all winter long.
And it's so cold that any uncleared snow quickly turns to ice
and stays ice until sometime in March.

There were weeks when - even with all this space - we didn't know
where to throw the snow. The drifts were too high.

We sometimes had to climb onto the drifts next to the driveway
to shovel the pile further into the yard so we could add the snow
from a new storm.  Fun times.

P.S. This post was not approved by a German. M sees nothing unusual or wrong with the way Swabians shovel, and I accept that. :-)

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Back to Class

I haven't written much lately because I have been otherwise engaged and because I've got some things on my mind I want to write about but that seem too heavy and serious for this blog. I have nearly completed several posts that I probably won't publish, and no fun or funny ideas have come to mind since the new year.

On January 7th I started teaching German again! I have made reference several times since November about getting involved with efforts to help refugees in our area acclimate to life here, observing occasionally and participating in one class or another at the Herman-Hesse-Kolleg among other things. When one of the teachers became no longer available, the director asked if I'd want to take over his afternoon class. Only one student showed up last week (a possible miscommunication about when classes resumed after Silvester) but this week more students came to make up a full - but small - class.
Update: This afternoon everyone on my class list was there; I have 16 students.

I had a fabulous Day 1 with my new class  on Monday! These refugees adult students from Syria and Eritrea want to learn German, learn quickly, are motivated, ask great questions, and were willing to participate in all the activities I'd planned. They have a wonderful sense of humor, are very respectful, help each other and want to know what I can teach. Despite the fact that three years ago I said I would be happy to never set foot in a classroom again, this is different. I have always wanted to teach an entire class of students who want to learn.

Several times on Monday I stood there while the students spoke Arabic to each other clarifying something for those who didn't understand my explanation, after which I said confidently, "Yep, exactly!" They knew I didn't understand a word, so they laughed. I realized as I was listening to them that Arabic sounds really beautiful, and I certainly wish I could understand it.

Look, I know it was just Day 1. I've had many Day 1s before. Surviving them is key.  This is more than surviving, though. I enjoy planning lessons and activities, I look forward to going to class. and I feel in my element in the classroom, especially with these students.

This is our classroom.
I hope the students do or will feel like they're making progress with me, and that they look forward to coming to class as well.

I studied English and German in college. I taught English for 16 years and German for 13 years to teenagers in Wisconsin. I've had exchange students in my classes from various places around the world. And I am certain that everything I have done in my educational and professional life has been preparing me for this. These students need to learn German to function here in Germany, and I have the time and ability to help them do so. I've already told them my German is not fehlerfrei (free from errors), but because I have also gone through the process of learning German, I understand some of the challenges they're facing.

What an experience this is!

One last thing. You've heard about the terrorist attacks including the one in Istanbul yesterday in which a group of German tourists were killed. You've heard about the assaults and thefts in Köln (Cologne) on New Year's Eve. You've probably also heard about right-wing neo-nazi types protesting about having so many refugees in Germany and burning down facilities that either are being used or are intended to be used for temporarily housing refugees. What you undoubtedly haven't heard of - unless you live here in Germany - are the many, many Germans who are reaching out, getting involved, and volunteering in their communities to help refugees. Groups are popping up all over and organizing getting-to-know-you coffees or meals, arranging talks with speakers who help the Germans and the refugees understand each other better, and finding ways to help the refugees integrate. Retired teachers are coming back into the classroom to teach basic German, churches and community centers are offering available space for German classes, tutoring, and for doing homework in a quiet place. I could go on and on.

The refugees with whom I have spoken have said their impressions of the Germans they have met face-to-face are very positive. Locals have helped them learn about the way of life here, the grocery store routine, visiting a doctor, introducing them to local dishes, showing them around, inviting them to join a Fußball (soccer) team, tutoring them in German, and answering the many questions they have, like "Why are there suddenly red and white flag banners hanging around the streets of Horb?"

Oh lordy...Fasnet/Fasching is coming.

It is wonderful to see what people can do when they are not blinded by fear and prejudice. I just want my faraway readers to know that there is a lot of good going on here in Germany, despite the fact that the press usually prefers to report on the bad.



Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Dreikönigstag 20*C+M+B+16

For long-time readers, this is an old post slightly edited and updated for this year with new photos taken moments ago.

Today is Dreikönigstag, Epiphany, which signals the end of the Christmas holidays here in Germany. Tomorrow regular work resumes for those who didn't already have to be back earlier this week, though classes don't resume in Baden-Württemberg schools until Monday.  In the States, school and work resumed on Jan. 4th - as soon after New Year's Day as possible.

On Dreikönigstag here in southern Germany, groups of children called Sternsinger go from house to house dressed in kingly costumes and carrying a lighted star. They sing a song, recite a poem about the three kings, write a blessing on the door frame, and collect a donation for a charity.  People they visit may also give them a treat - some chocolate, candy, etc. - to give them energy to carry on through the day. In our little village several groups of children are deployed with their adult chaperones to every house. Most people are home to greet them because today is a stiller Feiertag (holiday) in Baden-Württemberg.



This year's group was adorable! They sang very well and had their lines memorized, and they seemed to appreciate our donation and the nibblies.



The blessing they write on the door frame is (this year) 20*C+M+B+16.  Each piece of the blessing has a meaning.

    20...16 is the current year.
    The * represents the Star of Bethlehem.
    C M B stands for Christus Mansionem Benedicat** ("Christ Bless this House" in Latin)
    The three crosses represent the trinity.

**It is a common misconception that the C M B stands for the initials of the names of the three kings, which coincidentally are Casper, Melchior, and Balthazar.

The blessing stays on the door until the next Dreikönigstag, when the entire blessing is wiped off and rewritten for the new year.



I truly love this tradition, and I got giddy when I heard their footsteps on the front porch! It brings closure to the Christmas season in a really nice way. If I could send one holiday tradition to America, I'd send this one.

After the Sternsinger leave, it's time to take down Christmas. The decorations go back into their boxes, the tree branches get cut off and placed over garden plants to protect them against the cold, the tree trunk gets chopped up and put in the garage to use for firewood in 2 years when it's dry (because nothing gets wasted or thrown out in Swabia!), and the nativity scene gets packed away until next December. This year we're actually going to wait a bit; our neighbors told us just the other day and my Schwiegermutter confirmed it that the Catholic tradition is to wait until Mariä Lichtmess (Candlemas - February 2nd) to take down Christmas!

It was a lovely Advent and Christmas season, and I am always a little sad to pack up the decorations. I so enjoy the lights on the outside of the house, our lighted Christmas star and tree, and the general cheer of Christmas decorations.

I've enjoyed reading other bloggers' end-of-year and/or New Year's posts, and although I probably won't write one of those since I'm too much a realist for resolutions or personal goals, I should be able to come up with something interesting to write about in the next few weeks.



Sunday, January 3, 2016

Loving Southern Germany 4: The Holidays

As I have written before, southern Germany has been historically predominantly Catholic. Although I don't know a lot of Germans who regularly attend church, Christianity is deeply imbedded in the culture and way of life here. Every town I know of still holds its Catholic or Protestant identity, and the locals know which towns are which. Eutingen is Catholic. Mühlen, 3 km away, is Protestant. Freudenstadt is Protestant as is Esslingen. Horb is Catholic.

This does not mean that Catholics are not welcome in Protestant towns - just that, in most cases, during the Reformation and especially the 30 Years' War (1618-1648), it was decided through battles, bribes, or the citizens' preference which religion the town would support.

The point of this post is not a lesson in religious history, however. The importance of the fact that southern Germany is more Catholic than Protestant is that we have, in Baden-Württemberg, more public holidays connected to religion than the poor saps in the north. Up there my birthday is not a holiday, but in the south it is. Ok, it's not a holiday because it's my birthday, but because it's Allerheiligen (All Saints' Day). There's at least one other holiday here that they don't have up north, but I keep forgetting which one that is. Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi), perhaps. Most schools around us also have a week off during the nuttiness of Fasnet/Fasching, which is unusual north of Köln. Oh, and of course Dreikönigstag is not a holiday up there either!

Schmotziger Donnerstag, or Dirty Thursday

The way the southern Germans do holidays is something I truly appreciate, and it is very different from the way Americans do holidays. This is one of the many reasons I love living in southern Germany.

die Sternsinger on Epiphany


















Right now in the U.S., Christmas is over. School resumes tomorrow, and it would have started yesterday - on January 2nd - if it hadn't been a Saturday. On December 26th I saw quite a few Facebook posts beginning with "Now that Christmas is over..."  Here in Germany December 26th is the second day of Christmas, and it's a holiday. Remember that holidays here mean all stores - including grocery stores - are closed. Christmas isn't "over" in southern Germany until the day after Dreikönigstag (Epiphany), which is January 6th. This year the powers that be in Baden-Württemberg decided not to send kids back to school on a Thursday, so classes resume on January 11th.


Later in the year both Easter Sunday and Easter Monday are holy days and again, everything is closed. Altogether we have 12 holidays during the year when businesses and stores are closed (only three of those are non-religious), though I guess Easter Sunday doesn't have to count because stores and businesses are always closed on Sundays.

I don't know of a single day during the year when stores are closed all day in the U.S.. Holidays are a time to draw people into the stores for at least a few hours with holiday sales. It would certainly convenient to have grocery stores open in the morning of Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve and Day, but we manage just fine by carefully planning ahead.

On Silvester (New Year's Eve) there are several fun traditions, and the night ends with fireworks at midnight. Some cities have professional displays, but many people buy little ones in the day or two before Silvester and shoot them off from home. We don't spend money on such things, but we go outside at midnight and watch the neighborhood show with a glass of Sekt and sparklers.

Bleigießen - melting chunks of lead and dropping it into cold water.
It solidifies into a shape that should look like something. 
While all three of mine looked like sperms, I'm going to call them arrows.
My Schwiegermutter asked me this year if there are any New Year's Eve traditions in America, but I couldn't come up with anything except watching the ball drop in Times Square on TV. Friends or family get together for a party and usually lots of drinking and couples kiss at midnight, but that's it as far as I know. It's fun, and there's nothing wrong with the way Americans celebrate New Year's. The important thing is being together with loved ones and ringing in the New Year.

This was yet another long-winded post intended to say that another reason I love living in southern Germany is that holidays are truly holy days and even M doesn't have to be in the office as early or as long as usual. His employees don't return until Thursday this week (the day after Epiphany), and many other German companies operate with a skeleton crew between Christmas Eve and Epiphany. Even for those who are back to work normally as of January 2nd, Epiphany is a holiday.

Anyway, holidays are great - quiet, relaxing, enjoyable - in southern Germany. And that is the fourth reason I love living here.


Loving Southern Germany 1: Beautfiful Towns
Loving Southern Germany 2: The Landscape
Loving Southern Germany 3: The Food

Thursday, December 31, 2015

December Highs and Lows 2015

Today is the last day of the year, and I hope you can close 2015 saying there was more good than bad, more laughter than tears, and more peace in your soul than unrest. As for me, I don't need to review this thread of posts to know that there were more highs than lows in 2015. I am looking forward to 2016 and the adventures and challenges it will bring.

For something new, I'm going to try this month to limit my mention of food in my "Highs". Let's see how that goes.

HIGHS

  • meeting another expat blogger (Around the Wherever) in Esslingen at the Weihnachtsmarkt and hanging out for a few hours on a Saturday. She's originally from the American Midwest as well! We played Mäuseroulette, and I actually won this time! I kept my stone but gave the prize to a little Italian girl who had played that round as well but didn't win.
Darling Zora posed before running into the house with my stone on it!
The children are doing "mouse applause" with their fingers.
  • visiting Tübingen's Chocolate festival for the second year, buying gifts, and tasting samples. Yum!!

  • visiting the Hermann Hesse Kolleg several times and sitting in on classes where refugees are learning German. I was able to participate in the class and work with the students I was sitting near. One of the students asked me what a "Schirm" is, and I answered in German and pantomime: "When it rains I need an umbrella." He understood and wrote down the definition in Arabic. Then he looked at me and said, "You know English - why didn't you just tell me the English word?"  "Because you don't learn as well if I just give you the answer!" :-)

  • Friday morning riding lessons. I ride a sweet little horse named Mallory. Actually she's more bitchy than sweet, but she does her job well and puts up with me. 

  • appearing in a newspaper photograph that accompanied an article about the weekly Sprach-Cafe I attend where refugees, volunteers, and townspeople come together for refreshments and conversation.

  • Christmas, of course - a lovely, quiet celebration with my Schwiegermutter, M, and me as my kids headed to Disney World with my parents. Given and received were several books including two about food photography, calendars, socks (because M actually does like getting socks for Christmas!), lotion, knife sharpener blades, an in-home cooking class featuring sauces, and a day out shopping for "horse stuff."

  • bumping into an acquaintance of mine on a spontaneous trip into town and being offered a job! I wasn't looking for a job and never thought I'd want to teach again, but there is a need that I can fill. I can only commit to part time, but it looks like I'll be teaching basic German to at least one class of refugees four or five afternoons a week.

  • meeting my Gastmutter, my exchange partner, her husband and three of their kids for lunch in Esslingen. Although we didn't take any pictures, I truly enjoyed the afternoon! Incidentally, my exchange partner married an American and they live in Wisconsin, and as you know I married a Swabian and live in southern Germany. Little did we or our parents know, back when we applied for that exchange 30 years ago, how all our lives would change because of it.

LOWS

  • news from the U.S. that Donald Trump is still the most popular GOP candidate for the presidency. Seriously, people? 

  • the package I mailed to my family in Wisconsin not making it there in time for Christmas.

Curiosities

  • 250g of powdered sugar costs €1,19, while the same amount of regular sugar costs €0,16. I can make powdered sugar in our Thermomix in 10 seconds. Guess who's never buying powdered sugar again?

  • Vanilla extract is not sold in Germany - at least I've never been able to find it, and it's not an ingredient ever called for in German recipes. I learned that one can make vanilla extract by immersing sliced vanilla beans in vodka and letting it rest in the cellar for 8 weeks (giving it a shake once a week). I'll let you know at the end of February how it turned out.
one bean per 2 ounces of vodka


That's it for the year. Tonight we have fondue, "Dinner for One,"the British comedy sketch that is cult in Germany - Bleigießen (pouring melted lead into cold water to tell our fortunes), and neighborhood fireworks at midnight while M prowls around the house checking for errant burning rockets. Cheers! Slainte! Prosit!

Prepping the fondue:
Suppenfleisch
roasting the soup bones means less fat in the soup

Suppenfleisch, roasted bones, long pepper, anise, veggies, herbs from our garden
and parsley simmer on the stove for hours

pork and beef tenderloin, fresh veggies, Sahne Dip, fondue broth...ready to begin!

Although we have the DVD, it's really the wrong version -
the narrator's original grammatical mistake is edited and corrected. So we watch one of the many airings on TV.
Watch for the narrator (Heinz Piper) in the beginning doing the "Merkel Diamond" - all the way back in 1963!
Bleigeißen tools - plus a glass of water


I wish you all a fabulous New Year's Eve 
and a great and healthy start to 2016!!